illowing fields cloaked by olive groves, vineyards and sun-ripened wheat fields, castle-topped medieval towns and the fiercesome boundary of the snow-capped Apennine peaks. Let the hordes have Tuscany because those seeking a more authentic version should step across to Umbria, its quieter and less-trodden neighbour, and Le Marche, one of Italy’s great unsung regions. This lush and often sparsely populated part of central Italy is made for slow travel, for snaking along winding back roads to enchanting hill towns such as Perugia, Assisi, Gubbio and Urbino, and for revelling in fine food and wine. The cultural menu is equally rich, and Renaissance masterpieces by artists such as Giotto and local-born heroes Raphael and Perugino grace many of the regions’ churches and museums. Music lovers are also well served, with summer opera in Macerata, Pesaro and Spoleto, and jazz in Perugia. Umbria is the only region of Italy without a coastline and lies right in the middle of the peninsula. In ancient times it was the heartland of the Etruscan civilisation and the legacy remains in numerous places especially around Orvieto, a wonderful hilltop town that sits high on a turret of volcanic rock, which like most of Umbria feels as if time has stood still since the 16th century. East of the Tiber Valley are the towns of Spoleto, home to one of Italy’s great classical music festivals; Gubbio, centre of ancient Umbri civilization; and Assisi, birthplace of St. Francis and a showcase for the art of Giotto and many other great medieval painters and architects. For the perfect photo momento make sure to visit Piazza del Popolo in Todi. If Umbria is like stepping into a purer version of Tuscany, then neighbouring Le Marche will take the intrepid visitor those magical steps a little further into the authentic to one of Italy’s real off the beaten track gems. Embracing the Adriatic Sea on its eastern coast it is a land of breathtaking landscapes with rolling hills, medieval hilltop towns, stunning beaches alongside the blue sea, whilst the ever present stretches of vineyards and olive groves hint of the wonderful food and the exquisite wines. There are amazing wild places like mysterious Monti Sibillini on the border with Umbria and the Parco del Conero south of Ancona, where white cliffs plunge into the glittering Adriatic. umbria & le marche B A good pair of shoes and a sweet tooth is recommended when visiting hilly Perugia. The region’s capital is best appreciated by walking its steep medieval lanes armed with a little box of Perugina Baci (kisses), milk chocolates filled with gianduja. Visit during the annual chocolate festival (midOctober) and you can pick up supplies en-route, but be warned it is a long way to the top! Wondering through the medieval streets you’ll find the main piazzas and many central streets are scattered with stalls selling chocolate, blended into ice creams, cakes, pastries and even savoury dishes as well as in its unadulterated form. choco loco! 58
RkJQdWJsaXNoZXIy NjE5ODQ=