ompared with Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast, the ‘breadbasket’ of Italy is lesser visited yet remains the holiday destination of choice for chic Italians from the north. But, what it lacks in dramatic landscapes and natural beauty, it more than makes up for with its incredible food and produce, Baroque architecture and some of Europe’s most beautiful beaches. A growing collection of luxuriously refurbished masseria (restored fortified farmsteads), amazing climate and frequent flights to both Bari and Brindisi make the region an enticing travel destination year round. What’s more this hidden gem in the heel of Italy has some excellent surprises up its sleeve. For instance, head south from Bari to visit the bewitching town of Alberobello with its large concentration of trulli, Puglia’s unique conical vaulted cottages. It is said that this type of construction was used since it was easy to dismantle as ancient local laws forbade permanent settlement. Thankfully, in 1797, Alberobello achieved ‘town’ status and the restrictions were dropped, and yet these quirky workers cottages remained. Although located in the neighbouring region of Basilicata, the hilltop town of Matera, which was awarded the 2019 European Capital of Culture, is home to another intriguing style of accommodation, the ancient Sassi. These pre-historic cave dwellings carved into the sides of the a precipitous ravine, some of which date back to 7000 BC, are not noticeable from afar, yet on exploring the winding streets you will discover that the town is a honeycomb of these dwellings. Indeed, some of them have been cleverly converted into hotels (Sextantio Le Grotte della Civita is featured ). Matera was a location in the most recent James Bond film and is a wonderful contrast to the sandy beaches and richer towns that dot the Puglian coastline. Of course, for a supreme display of Baroque period buildings, Puglia is home to a staggering concentration of this ornate architecture in several towns but most prevalent in the city of Lecce, known as ‘the Florence of the South’. One of its finest works is the 16th century Basilica di Santa Croce on Via Umberto. The beautiful exterior of the church is peppered with carvings of cherubs and animals, and is so ornate it is no surprise that it took nearly a century to be completed. For total period immersion, head for Piazza Del Duomo, the heart of the city and home to its 12-century cathedral. This beautiful square is flanked on all sides by Baroque masterpieces. Heritage architecture has also become the backbone of the burgeoning luxury hotel scene in Puglia, and there are a growing number of town and country properties that have been sympathetically renovated and embellished to cater for the increased numbers of discerning travellers seeking a break to this wonderful region. Most commonly, old fortified farmsteads set within rambling estates of fruit orchards, vineyards and olive groves have been re-purposed by gifted architects into the most relaxing retreats. These Masserie are to be found all across the open countryside and some of our favourites are featured here together with some impressive historical townhouses and even a palazzo. Puglia C 34
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