Regions of Italy

regions of italy A series of features focusing on specific regions of Italy (4-10 page format) Eye-catching introduction pages with a full bleed hero image with a destination map and article with additional general interest vignettes. Depending on the length of the main article this may overflow onto page 3 together with further general interest vignettes as appropriate. This is accompanied by a number of brief hotel recommendations (choices are available):

Contents Amalfi & Capri Gallura & The Costa Smeralda Lake Como, Lake Maggiore & Lake Iseo Lake Garda & Verona 4 10 16 22 A series of focus articles on regions of Italy with recommendations for a broad selection of 4 and 5-star hotels and resorts in each region covered. Click on page image to fast-track to specific article. Liguria & Piedmont 28

Sicily & The Aeolian Islands Tuscany Umbria & Le Marche (4-page format) 42 48 58 Puglia 34 Coming soon... Italy’s Hidden Gems - Basilicata (Maratea & Castelmezzano), Trieste, Pantelleria and Cagliari Italy’s Gastronomic Heartland - Bologna, Parma, Modena & Ravenna Summer in the Mountains - Trentino/Alto Adige (Brenta), Valle D’Aosta (Courrmayer & La Thuile), Abruzzo (Gran Sasso) , Tuscany (& Piedmont (Val di Susa)

t may only stretch for 50 kilometres, but the Amalfi Coast offers enough idyllic beauty and Italian luxury for a standalone trip. Driving its winding seaside roads will take you to charming coastal towns, scenic beaches, villas and gardens, and some of the best hotels in the world. Jump onto a boat and cross the straits to the idyllic Island of Capri and you will certainly appreciate why the Romans weren’t satisfied with the mainland. Perhaps, they felt a bit burnt by the heat in the Bay of Naples! There are 13 towns and villages that make up the Amalfi Coast, each with their own unique essence and quintessentially steep streets. You can reach them all by the scenic 16th century Strada Statale Amalfitana (SS. 163) road, which bewitchingly curves and winds through the cliffside. The ancient town of Amalfi gives the coastline its name, and is a bustling haven filled with a labyrinth of whitewashed houses, alleys and stairways. Situated below the Valle dei Mulini, this town was once at the capital of the maritime republic. The Cloister del Paradiso is a magical garden to explore, and views from the belltower of its historic ArabicNorman cathedral are worth the 62-step climb up from the Piazza Duomo. In glitzy Positano, the town where the trendsetting jetsetters gather, you’ll find buzzing bars and chic boutiques filled with handmade leather sandals and signature linen clothing. Heart-stirringly romantic with its faded aristocratic glory, Ravello perches in the mountains. Filled with secluded grand villas and gardens that inspired the German composer Richard Wagner, the town is home to one of Italy’s oldest musical festivals. amalfi & capri I Contrary to tales of Amalfitana monks and sailors variously cultivating an elixir to ward off scurvy or the foul mood of the irreligious, Limoncello’s history is most likely short and is not rooted in agrarian tradition. A British journalist, Lee Marshall, argues that there is little proof that this popular, cloudy liqueur even existed before the 20th century and that outside of a handful of families and social circles, few drank it before 1988, when the entrepreneur Massimo Canale of Capri registered the trademark “Limoncello di Capri” but almost like the growth of the internet over the same period it is now to be found everywhere! a short history of limoncello & internet 4

Naples Salerno Sorrento Priano Amalfi Positano Island of Capri Island of Ischia Ravello Castelemare di Stabia

Amalfi’s smaller towns are less dominated by visitors, but remain charmingly simple, stop-worthy destinations. Visit the authentic towns of Furore, Atrani, Maiori, and the fishing villages of Cetara and Conca dei Marini. Explore colourful ceramics in the town of Vietri sul Mare, and silk production in Praiano. Taste full-bodied wines in the hilly town of Tramonti, and tuck into the renowned handmade pasta found in Minori. The Amalfi Coast is home to plenty of well-trodden trails where you can hike through panoramic nature, such as Sentiero degli Dei, the Path of the Gods. With so much to marvel at, it's perfectly clear why the Amalfi Coast is considered the crown jewel of the Neapolitan Riviera, but step offshore to the glittering island of Capri and the glamour metre begins to tick very fast. The higher echelons of society seldom reach greater heights than that of an emperor and Capri was once the home of the controversial Tiberius. The second Roman Emperor spent most of his term of office in Capri at Villa Jovis, the ruins of which can still be visited. The island is split into two "comuni" or towns, Capri and Anacapri. Most people only visit Capri town, with its well-known attractions such as the Piazzetta, Marina Piccola and the famous shopping streets. However, there is another world a short bus or taxi ride away on the other side of the island. Anacapri is much more spread out and residential, and it’s where you can take the chair lift to the top of Monte Solaro. From this elevated position you can look across the entire island with sweeping views across the water to the Amalfi peninsula. To house the summer swarms of ‘well to do’s’, the island is home to some of the world’s most exclusive hotels whilst in the surrounding waters you will no doubt catch sight of some of the world’s finest super yachts, so once you have nabbed a prime spot on the Piazzetta, get ready for some ‘A’ list spotting! Positano Ravello View of Capri, sea and Amalfi Peninsula from Mount Solaro The Blue Grotto has been bewitching visitors since the time of the Roman emperor Tiberius, who loved it so much that he commissioned statues to decorate it. The grotto’s extraordinary optical effect is created by the sunlight bouncing on the cave walls, producing electricblue water that seems to glow. While on this tour, you’ll transfer into a small rowboat at the entrance, and depending on weather conditions, you may have to lie flat on the boat to fit into the cave. Another classic sight on the water are the Faraglioni, a massive rock formation comprising three separate limestone stacks that stand guard off the southern coast. Sailing between the rocks is an exhilarating experience. The blue Grotto & Faraglioni rocks 6

cliffside paradises With a long and colourful history Caruso, a Belmond hotel, stuns its fortunate guests with spectacular views of the Amalfi coastline from its lofty perch above the town of Ravello. With the promise of flawless service, gastronomic glory at the aptly named Belvedere restaurant, superb accommodation and a creativity that elevates a stay into a journey of discovery this impossibly romantic clifftop refuge has quite rightly earned special billing on a coast renowned for spectacular hotels. Take a late swim and watch another dreamy day conclude as the sun sets behind the mountains opposite the edge of the infinity pool - truly a super wide screen moment! Caruso, A Belmond Hotel Ravello, Amalfi Coast, Campania Palazzo Avino is a stunning five-star deluxe hotel on Italy’s famed Amalfi coast. Built in what was once a 12th century private villa for an Italian noble family and opened as a hotel in 1997, Palazzo Avino has been applauded as one of the world’s finest hotels and boasts one-star Michelin dining. Tucked away in the medieval hilltop village of Ravello, perched high on the cliffs, 350 m (1,000 ft) above the sparkling Mediterranean, Palazzo Avino overlooks some of the coast’s most picturesque fishing villages. Journey down to the sea to bask at the hotel’s exclusive beach club, located 15 minutes from Ravello, or stay up high and relax at the 20 metre, outdoor, heated pool. Facilities also include a spa and beauty centre, the Lobster and Martini Bar, and various sun decks including a spectacular rooftop terrace with an infinity hydropool. Guests can expect the highest quality of service and hospitality whilst staying in the choice of just 33 rooms and 10 suites, and with a staff to guest ratio of two to every room offering 24-hour room service! Palazzo Avino Ravello, Amalfi Coast, Campania

The San Pietro Hotel in Positano benefits from an exceptional location, stretching out across a headland overlooking the sea and offering a spectacular view of Positano and of the coast up to Faraglioni di Capri. The hotel has two restaurants: the Zass, which has a Michelin star, and the Carlino (reserved for guests) which looks directly out to sea. It offers several exclusive services, such as lift access to the private beach, tennis courts close to the sea, a Spa with La Prairie treatments, and a free crossing (from May to September) on a private yacht. The hotel enjoys a prime location right at the exit of the town centre, to which it is linked by a free shuttle operating 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. It is popular for its peacefulness and open spaces, and offers real luxury in the small town of Positano. Its many rooms have each a private terrace and a wonderful sea view. The interior details include fine terracotta floors with ceramic decoration and doors adorned with frescoes. Il San Pietro di Positano Positano, Amalfi Coast, Campania Casa Angelina Praiano, Amalfi Coast, Campania Cut into the Amalfi Coastline in charming Praiano sits Casa Angelina. With a clean, refreshing aesthetic and touches of refined Italian elegance, tranquillity is the theme at this cliffside hotel. While its design ethos and down-to-earth luxe vision push the boundaries of tradition, this romantic retreat remains firmly rooted in its surrounding. Outside Casa Angelina, walking-distance, waits the authentic charm of Praiano. This peaceful village, sits midway between Positano and Amalfi. Do not miss a private boat tour along the Amalfi Coast, onboard the private Master Angelina boat. Explore secluded coves and watch the sunset against the backdrop of Capri. Hotel Santa Caterina Amalfi, Amalfi Coast, Campania Opened in 1904 as a humble guest house, the Hotel Santa Caterina has since transformed into one of the Amalfi Coast's oldest grand hotels. Owned and managed by the same Gambardella family for more than four generations, the property is also a personal expression of local style. Interiors are embellished with 19th-century antiques and hand-painted ceramic tiles, and even more grand are the exteriors with centuriesold gardens and sweeping views of the Bay of Salerno. Elevators cut into the rocks sweep guests to a private beach club complete with a large saltwater pool. The romantic setting amidst orange groves and brightpink bougainvillea has not been lost on big names: Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton stayed here, as did Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt. From amalfi to positano The road in question, the s.s.163 ‘Amalfitana’ , snakes its way along this most beautiful of coasts and was built by the Romans: 8

J.K. Place Marina Grande, Capri Discreet charm and home-like ease, this is the philosophy behind the creation of the J.K. Place Capri. The hotel’s interiors echo the style and the concept of a luxurious residence, enhanced by the light and colour of the sea. Spacious rooms have a bright but classical feel accented by light fabrics and white floors, drawing the eye out to the wonderful views. The hotel's stylish restaurant, JKitchen, is a modern confection of black, white and grey, with comfy chairs, fabulous seafood, and panoramic sea views from the terrace. As champions of traditional Neapolitan slow food, the Mediterranean menu is organic and uses whatever fruit and vegetables are currently in season. Capri Tiberio Palace Capri If you want to be in the centre of Capri Town close to the Piazzetta then you have to choose Capri Tiberio Palace. This stylish hotel boasts modern interiors with a classic and sophisticated decor and luxurious amenities including a free-form indoor-outdoor pool with beautiful views of the island and the mediterranean, an invigorating range of treatments at the Spa Tiberio and hours of idling at the Taschen library of art and photography books. In short the hotel exhales an eclectic vibe, absolutely unequalled throughout the island. Retro details hint of the Dolce Vita era - let the hotel organise a scooter tour just like in ‘Roman Holiday’! Capri Palace Jumeirah Anacapri At Capri Palace Jumeirah you will discover a setting that is paradisiacal with immaculate service and a main restaurant that gleams with Michelin stars. Add-in its prime location in the unspoiled village of Anacapri at the foot of rugged Mount Solaro, and this is every inch the sophisticated escape where a sundowner is accompanied by the most breath-taking panoramas of Ischia Island and the Gulf of Naples. Settle in at sunset on one of the terraces and enjoy the spectacle. Set like a jewel at the base of the rocky cliffs, the hotel’s Il Riccio Beach Club is just steps away from the lapis-lazuli waters of the Blue Grotto. Punta Tragara Capri Punta Tragara has a rich history. It was designed by the modernist architect, Le Corbusier in the 1920s and welcomed Churchill and Eisenhower during WWII. Today, the luxury hotel offers stunning panoramic views of the island, sea and the famous Faraglioni Rocks, perhaps best admired from the restaurant, Monzu. There are lots of outdoor spaces including several terraces as well as two outdoor pools. A word of warning though as access to the hotel’s cliff-side location requires a 15-minute walk from the nearest drop-off point (the hotel porter service for luggage). lifestyle choices of capri 9

Gallura & The Costa Smeralda Turquoise seas and dreamy beaches amid the stunning rockscapes of North-East Sardinia 10

Mother Nature has been a patient sculptor lavishing millions of years of erosion to chisel the stunning geography of Gallura in the north-east of Sardinia. Blessed with over 300 days of bright sunshine, the undulating coastline is studded with a myriad of craggy bays and fine sand beaches. The view to the open seas is often punctuated by islands that invite exploration and the translucent and shallow waters shimmer in shades of bright turquoise that lap seductively onto a vibrant and fragrant green terrain. A girdle of craggy mountains, Gallura’s answer to The Dolomites, form a natural barrier to the rest of Sardinia, which explains its cultural and historical isolation. Today, this spectacularly beautiful region is also home to the jewel in the crown of sophisticated Italian beach culture, thanks in no small part to the lavish attentions of the Aga Khan, who invested hugely in the building of the stylish marina of Porto Cervo on a 70 hectare plot that became the fancy heart of the internationally acclaimed Costa Smeralda, a benchmark for balanced low rise tourism development. Some of the world’s most famous luxury resorts like Romazzino, Cala di Volpe and The Pitrizza (yes, the hotel that popularised grass covered roofs) play host to the rich and famous, and the bays and marinas along this 34-mile platinum coast are peppered during July and Map of Gallura Porto Cervo San Teodoro Cannigione SARDINIA 11

August with the world’s finest super yachts for the season. In the pseudo village alleyways and terraces of Porto Cervo the world’s leading fashion brands fight for your attention from fashionably camouflaged boutique shop fronts. Even so, the Costa Smeralda exudes a laid-back charm more akin to the Caribbean. Venture away from the glitz and you will be rewarded with a far more authentic Galluran experience, steeped in ancient history (neolithic stoneworks dot the land around Arzachena), untamed scrublands of rosemary, thyme, mint, oregano, juniper and myrtle that lend their distinctive Maccia fragrance to the countryside, rows upon rows of vines producing the most sublime red and white wines and a thriving agritourism scene with a strong emphasis on farm (or sea) to fork ethos. The canny traveller would probably avoid the high summer months, especially Ferragosto (late July to mid-August) when the whole of Italy goes on holiday. Instead, enjoy the wonderful colours of late spring or take advantage of late summer right into early October when the sea is still warm but the beaches have emptied and the long winding coastal roads are relieved of queues and irksome tailgaters. This is a time that will appeal to avid cyclists. To get you thinking about a future trip we hope that some of our location highlights, experiential notes and hotel recommendations will inspire you. At the very northernmost point of Gallura the straits between Sardinia and Corsica are at their narrowest. At the lighthouse on Capo Testa you can clearly see across the waters to the white cliffs and battlements of the fortress city of Bonifacio. As if to honour a natural funnel for the racing winds in the channel, the remote coastline delivers some of Gallura’s most wind-sculpted landscapes, a hiker’s paradise with numerous tiny bays and beaches to discover among the primordial granite boulders. Chiselled by the winds Capo Testa, near Santa Theresa di Gallura It seems that the Aga Khan was not the only nobleman to be wooed by Gallura in the 1960s. In this case it was a Spaniard, Count Rafael Neville from Andalucia, who had a dream of an idyllic, village of whitewashed casitas with a central Piazzetta in a pretty, little bay overlooking islands. After scouring France and Italy he found his corner near Palau. Sadly, the bon viveur Count died in 1996, but his legacy thrives, as a popular enclave of soft-contoured villas and wellness retreats. Porto Rafael is all he imagined, a bucolic ‘Dolce Vita’ hideaway. There is even a tiny little church, Santa Rita da Cascia, built to fulfil a rich aunt’s bequest, in return for financing his dream project. “To Dream is to Live” dedication plate at Porto Rafael Porto Rafael, near Palau Highlights of Gallura View of the bear rock at Capo D’orso, near Palau Giants' grave of Coddu Vecchiu, near Arzachena Porto Rafael Nuraghic watchtower at Capo Testa with Bonifacio (Corsica) in the distance 12

A short ferry ride from Palau takes daytrippers to a marine wonderland comprising 7 larger Islands and a further 55 islets with some of the most stunning and unspoiled beaches in all Sardinia with fine sand and crystal waters making it a place that’s as good for finding a secluded spot to sunbathe as it is for scuba diving and snorkelling. Better still you should plan a trip to the archipelago on a charter yacht or dayboat giving you the freedom to roam at will dropping anchor at beaches on some of the smaller, uninhabited islands. Caprera and Maddalena are the only islands with access to cars. Of historical note, the wild island of Caprera was home to Garibaldi. for the last 27 years of his life. Protected marine paradise La Maddalena Archipelago National Park Tucked in among the mountains, San Pantaleo is a rare traditional Galluran village and one of the prettiest in Sardinia. Bursting with a distinctly bohemian character, this charming village is set around a picturesque piazza along with lively cafés and several artisan shops. With its stone-built cottages, stunning position couched by the mountain peaks and relaxed atmosphere, many artists have been inspired to take up residency. There is a bustling market every thursday, ideal for those looking to experience a piece of Sardinian culture. Art inspired village San Pantaleo Sardinian food has a focus on the use of local, seasonal ingredients so what you eat is invariably super fresh and usually prepared to order. You might well be tempted to forsake a beach front resort in favour of a rustic country farmstead where you will be spoilt with robust, organic produce plucked from the estate. Agritourism is big all over Italy, but in Sardinia its a great way to experience the traditional ways and appreciate Galluran hospitality first hand. Even if you are shacked up at a dreamy beach resort you should still make the effort to eat at least once at a farmhouse restaurant especially if the Sardinian speciality of Porceddu (slow roasted suckling pig) is being prepared on the spit! Superb as a summer sip, Vermentino is the celebrated classic white wine of Sardinia. Dry and full bodied, it is the only DOCG wine of Sardinia (the highest ranking among the 4-tier Italian classification) and the grape variety has been grown for centuries in Gallura. Another grape variety, this time a robust red which pulls its punches, is Cannonau. It is the local name for French Grenache or Spanish Garnacha. Recently, it has been evidenced that the Grenache varietal may have actually originated from Sardinia rather than from Spain and is the signature red wine. Bovale and Carignano are also great red varietals and some of the best wines are interesting blends. Leading winemakers, Argiolas, make some of the island’s very finest wines. If your budget will allow it make sure to splash out on a bottle of Turriga. From field to plate Agriturismo in Gallura Vermentino & Cannonau Spectacular regional wine varieties Spiaggia Rosa, Isola Budelli

It’s a rare discovery to find an authentic environmentally-conscious luxury hideaway where wild nature and creature comforts come together in perfect harmony. This is exactly what the newly opened Cascioni Eco Retreat delivers in Sardinia’s north-eastern corner set within a 90-acre nature reserve. This sister property to Relais Villa del Golfo Its low-lying farmhouses, though unassuming at first, are home to 15 immaculate suites (all with private plunge pools and gardens), a sun-soaked swimming pool, organic spa, and well-stocked wine cellar. Olive trees and fields of alfalfa border the hotel – the estate harvests and bottles its own extra virgin olive oil every October – perfect for dipping your just-baked carasau flatbread in while dining alfresco in the garden-to-table restaurant. Cascioni Eco Retreat Localita Cascioni, near Arzachena Overlooking the picturesque Gulf of Arzachena, the Villa del Golfo Lifestyle Resort is 10 minutes walk from the village of Cannigione. Built in traditional Sardinian style, it has 56 bedrooms, each with a sea view and balcony or terrace. There are varied dining options. on and off the property. Miraluna has excellent views over the bay from its panoramic terrace. The hotel’s second restaurant, ‘La Colti farmhouse’ is a short drive away and serves organic specialities of the Gallura region. The ‘Cutter Lounge & Restaurant’ on Cannigione beach serves pizzas and local dishes whilst enjoying a wonderful view of the crystal-clear sea. The hotel's sailing boat, ‘BonAria’ is available for exclusive or group excursions to the Archipelago of La Maddalena. Relais Villa del Golfo Lifestyle Resort Cannigione, Bay of Arzachena Where to stay 14

Opened in 2021 on Sardinia’s dreamy north-east coast, Baglioni Resort Sardinia is immersed in a sublime natural landscape within the Tavolara marine reserve near one of the island’s most beautiful beaches, Lu Impostu. The 78 suites and rooms are spacious, modern and elegantly furnished. Some offer fabulous views stretching right across the bay. Culinary highlights include the Michelin Star restaurant "Gusto by Sadler", a Pool Bar, a Terrace Bar and a second Italian restaurant with a Mediterranean theme. Other facilities include a 25-metre pool, a Kids Club, two children’s pools and an exclusive Spa boasting a 90 °C Finnish sauna, a steam bath, an ice fountain, 2 sensory showers, as well as 4 treatment cabins. The resort is just a 20 minutes drive from Olbia Costa Smeralda International Airport. Baglioni Resort Sardinia San Teodoro Nestled in a corner between two fine sandy beaches, Gabbiano Azzurro Hotel & Suites is surrounded by crystalclear, shallow waters with stunning views out over the bay and across the coastline on one side, while having direct access to a narrow stretch of gently shelving beach on the other. One of the region’s first hotels, its long standing staff members offer a genuine warmth and friendliness which adds to Gabbiano Azzurro’s relaxed and welcoming feel. Modern white furnishings and shades of pale blue provide a light and airy seaside ambience within the spacious reception areas which open out onto sunny terraces and a pool area from which there is ample seating to admire the sea view. All the bedrooms are comfortably furnished and each has a balcony overlooking the sea, beach or village. High quality and beautifully presented cuisine is available from the hotel’s two main restaurants, with views across the beach. The town of Golfo Aranci is just a few minutes stroll away making this hotel an excellent base for both couples and families seeking accommodation right by the beach with a range of facilities on the doorstep and within walking distance of bars, shops and restaurants. Gabbiano D’Azzurro Hotel & Suites Golfo Aranci 15

ramed against a breathtaking landscape of steep, pineswathed mountains, Lake Como is famed for its atmospheric sense of calm and elegance. The wishbone-shaped lake is over 37 kms long, and is one of the deepest in Europe. Its shores are dotted with a collection of rainbow-coloured towns and villages, whose surrounding hills offer lovely walks and even lovelier views. The whole effect is a blend of regal Italian charm and a surprising tropical beauty. Lake Como has been a popular holiday destination for aristocrats and the wealthy since Roman times, due to its beautifully kept public gardens, historic villas and dramatic views, so you may end up brushing shoulders with a few of the celebrities who own homes there, probably the most famous of which is owned by George Clooney. Bellagio is one of the most stunning lakeside towns not only on the lake, but in Europe. It’s known for its lavish villas, particularly Villa Serbelloni and Villa Melzi as well as for its pretty cobbled streets and breathtaking views from the tip of the lake’s central peninsula. Menaggio is a lakeside hotspot on the western shore and sports an old-town centre and a pretty promenade. Just down the road is Cadenabbia, a tiny hamlet with the most stunning views, which is an ideal base for exploring the region. Just next to that is Tremezzo, famous for its vibrant gardens bursting with colour and its Lake Como F Built in the late 16th century, this magnificent Villa is known for its picturesque gardens, which exclusively feature flowers and trees in the colours of the Italian flag: green, white and red. Not surprisingly the villa is one of the most popular places to visit along the shoreline and would make the highlight of a day’s outing by boat on the lake taking in other sites like the town of Bellagio as well as other notable lakeside villas including Villa Carlotta, Villa D’Este and a sneaky peek at George’s pad! Fans of Star Wars and Casino Royale will probably recognise Villa del Balbianello as it was used for key scenes in both movies. Villa del Balbianello 16

mountain walking trails surrounded by olive and orange groves. The best way to explore the rest of the lake is by water. Varenna, which lies on the eastern side of the lake benefits from fast road links to Milan via the lake’s second city of Lecco.The city of Como, at the bottom of the western spur is a cosmopolitan wonder, and the boats can take you to must-see landmarks like the fascinating Villa del Balbianello. Whilst Lake Como undoubtedly steals the limelight there are also two other Italian lakes of particular note that sit either side along the base of the Alps, Lake Maggiore to the west and the smaller Lake Iseo to the east. Once a popular destination for European nobility, Lake Maggiore is today a peaceful spot with a smattering of sights and a feeling of faded glory, and yet it is popular as a cooling escape for many in high summer with plenty of walking and mountain biking routes. Stresa and Pallanza look out onto the Golfo Borromeo, home to the beautiful Isole Borromee. Isola Bella is the highlight, with a Baroque palazzo commanding impressive views and magnificent terraced gardens where white peacocks roam. Isola Madre is a botanical wonderland with rare botanical species and a colony of parrots. The northern part of the lake is more sedate, with tranquil lakeside villages such as Cannero and Cannobio. Almost halfway towards Lake Garda in the east (featured in a separate article with Verona), lies the pretty, but small Lake Iseo. Its lake island, Monte Isola, is Europe’s largest, sprinkled with picturesque fishing villages and best explored on two wheels. The Via Valeriana, once an ancient trading route, is a popular hiking route that snakes through olive groves and vineyards, while the village of Zone is home to impressive rocky pyramids topped by granite boulders. Franciacorta, a hilly region to the southeast, produces the Italy’s finest sparkling wine. As with all northern Italy’s lakes the area is popular with walkers and cyclists. One of the enduring design and lifestyle icons of the 20th century were the beautifully constructed wooden framed motor boats that became the aristocratic playboys of European and American waterways. Today, well-kept examples of models such as the 9-metre Riva Super Aquarama can fetch prices in mid 6 figures. The headquarters of Riva is based in Sarnico on the banks of Lake Iseo, where boats have been made since 1842! the legendary riva Franciacorta, Italy’s finest sparkling wine Villa Carlotta, Tremezzina, Lake Como A classic ferry on Lake Como, Bellagio Isola Bella, Lake Maggiore Shutterstock.com/livethemoment View from Mount Colombina to Lake Iseo, Lombardy 18

lake como’s iconic residences Some of the world’s most iconic, luxury hotels sit proudly along the banks of Lake Como: Passalacqua Moltrasio, Lake Como, Lombardy Sister property to the lake’s iconic Grand Hotel Tremezzo, Passalacqua is a passion project of the De Santis family – one of Italy’s leading hoteliers. The hotel is one of Lake Como’s most spectacular private villas and a destination in itself, following three years of restoration. Standing above the village of Moltrasio, just minutes from the city of Como, it is surrounded by 7 acres of terraced gardens, sweeping down to the lake’s shore. This extraordinary 18th century villa is steeped in history, having played host to some of the world’s most brilliant minds in music, literature, art and politics from Napoleon Bonaparte to Bellini to Winston Churchill. Evoking a sense of timeless charm, guests have a choice of 24 individually designed rooms and suites. Passalacqua offers guests a relaxed ‘home away from home’ approach to dining, being treated to authentic and simple Italian home cooking, using fresh seasonal ‘garden to table’ ingredients. Choose to dine as takes your pleasure whether within or perhaps al fresco, on the terrace, or even at a table set up in the olive groves. Grand Hotel Tremezzo Tremezzina, Lake Como, Lombardy This grand Art Nouveau palazzo is steeped in history and its proud heritage is a symbol of Italian hospitality. Its majestic lakefront setting and lavishly appointed accommodation provide splendid luxury and a haven for discerning travellers. With the most beautiful location on the western shores of Lake Como, Grand Hotel Tremezzo faces directly onto Bellagio,w here the two branches of the lake meet against the rose-tinted backdrop of the Grigne mountains. Be sure to upgrade to a Lake View Deluxe room where you open the balcony doors to soak in the magnificent views stretching from Bellagio to Punta Balbianello. Take a dip in the iconic Water-On-the-Water floating pool on the Lake before seeing the sites of the lake in one of the hotel’s private motor launches.

Il Sereno Hotel Torno, Lake Como, Lombardy Il Sereno Lago di Como is a small and intimate ultraluxury hotel on the eastern shores of Lake Como near Torno. Respecting its natural and historical surroundings, the hotel joins a select group of illustrious properties in this exclusive destination. Building on the success of Le Sereno St. Barth’s, the owners joined forces with Milanbased designer Patricia Urquiola to introduce a contemporary and more relaxed interpretation of luxury, design and personalised service to Lake Como. The result is a unique retreat that is regarded as the most stylish and private sanctuary among the lake’s prestigious collection of hotels. Mandarin Oriental, Lago di Como San Pietro in Cariano, Near Verona, Province of Verona They say the east bank of Lake Como is best as you face sunset. Such is the case at Mandarin Oriental’s fabulous lakeside offering just 15 minutes up the western spur of the lake from Como City and looking across the lake at the glamorous rose-tinted villas of Cernobbio at the foot of Mount Bisbino.. This former residence of the soprano, Giuditta Pasta, was where the composer Vincenzo Bellini wrote his two most famous works: La Sonnambula and Norma. Today, the original Villa Roccabruna and various outlying buildings are now home to a deliciously exotic hotel imbued with the essence of the orient. Consisting of 75 sumptuous rooms and suites, 2 restaurants, and a spa of 1,330 m2 this has to be one of the most romantic retreats on the Lake. VISTA Palazzo Lago di Como City lakefront, Como, Lombardy This lake’s edge retreat oozes effortless glamour; its designer interiors somewhere between aristocratic mansion and luxury modern yacht. And with the city at its back and Lake Como at its door, the hotel is perfectly located for a lake stay with the thrills of town life. Step indoors to discover polished parquet floors, glass walls and the kind of marble bathrooms you only find in Italy. While there’s just a small collection of rooms and suites at Vista Palazzo Lago di Como, they’re palatial in size. Stretch out further at the Infinity Bar or over dinner at Sottovoce. Both located on the top floor with breath-taking views across the water and two outdoor rooftop terraces. 20

Lake Maggiore & Lake Iseo where to stay From the majesty of Lake Maggiore to the wine country surrounding Lake Iseo we suggest a compelling trio of properties ranging from lakeside Belle Epoque grandeur, a Neo-Gothic hillside estate and a Franciacorta retreat : Breathtaking views of Lake Maggiore and facing the Borromean Islands, Villa & Palazzo Aminta exudes an air of romance. Housed in a Belle Époque mansion from the early 20th century, the hotel was recently restored when its current owners purchased it. Guest accommodations include thirteen suites with lake views. On the top floor La Borromea Suite, the jewel of the crown for VIP Guests with private stairs and elevator with private Jacuzzi pool overlooking the enchanting Lake Maggiore. The gorgeous lake setting, complemented by the Mediterranean-like gardens, also takes centre stage at two gourmet restaurants, Le Isole and I Mori, the new Italian restaurant. The Palazzo Aminta Beauty & SPA offers exclusive programs to re-balance the body and soul. Castello dal Pozzo Oleggio Castello, Lake Maggiore, Piedmont In the nineteenth century Lake Maggiore was frequented by the European aristocracy and even today we perceive the romantic charm of its past. The style of Castello Dal Pozzo reflects the elegance of the Neo-Gothic era, guests are catapulted into atmospheres of the past, between the shimmering blue of the lake and the luxuriantly green surrounding hills. The hotel is comprised of three buildings including a castle, an 18th-century villa and recently restored stables offering 45 rooms, 3 restaurants, a choice of bars and an outdoor pool. It is the ideal place to relax and is conveniently close to Malpensa Airport nestled in the hills close to the lakeside town of Arosa. L’Albereta, a Relais & Chateaux member Ebrusco, near Lake Iseo, Lombardy L’Albereta, located an hour from Milan, is a 19th Century country villa deep in the Lombardy countryside close to the southern shores of Lake Iseo and in the heart of Franciacorta wine region. 57 rooms gives guests a relaxing setting for a tranquil escape. All rooms have views of the vineyards, which cascade down the hills surrounding the hotel – hit a switch in the exclusive Cabriolet Suite and watch the roof open up. Chef Fabio Abbattista transports flavours from the surrounding hills to create traditional rustic Italian dishes with a few modern touches. The award winning, medical spa, Espace Vitalite Henri Chenot, offers body wraps and aromatherapy. Villa e Palazzo Aminta Hotel, Beauty & SPA Stresa, Lake Maggiore, Piedmont 21

arved by an ancient super glacier Lake Garda descends southwards like a huge ladle into the fertile plains of the Po Valley from its narrower alpine reaches. As Italy’s largest and most popular lake it extends for more than 50 km from north to south and is divided between three Italian regions (Veneto, Lombardy, Trentino). Lake Garda is so large, it changes dramatically from north to south. The southern shores are pretty and genteel, beloved by poets and writers throughout history, with beautiful villas and a quiet atmosphere. The northern shores become wilder as you move further into the Alps. Wherever you go you will always be near to one of the many picturesque lakeside towns and villages. Mountainous landscapes, hillside villages and harbour towns line the shores of the narrower, northern end of the lake This area has been popular with the adventure-minded for decades and the opportunities for outdoor activities are endless, including paragliding, rock-climbing and sailing on the lake. The breezy conditions are ideal for watersports whilst the hill terrain is ideal walking country.especially around Malcesine and Riva del Garda.For those seeking something a little more relaxing you can spend hours just watching the water, while sitting on the lakefront of Torbole with an ice cream or spritz. This area was historically under Austrian rule, so reminders of the centuries-old invasion threats appear in the most northerly towns of Riva and Torbole. The south of Lake Garda is much flatter and wider, with the Sirmione peninsula protruding from the south. Known for its mild, Mediterranean climate, olive trees C One of the most picturesque towns along the northern fringes of the lake is Limone sul Garda (so named because lemons grow here in the wonderful microclimate). Like neighbouring Riva del Garda and Malcesine the sheer slopes of the surrounding mountains drop close to the lake edge creating dramatic vistas. Whichever of the towns you start from why not consider visiting all three towns on a daytrip using the excellent ferry service, with the additional benefit of wonderful views from the lake. Postcard perfect Lake Garda & Verona 22

and lemon groves flourish here in the very mild, Mediterranean-like microclimate which also accounts for the perfect conditions for the growing of world-renowned wines in the vineyards surrounding Bardolino and Lazise. The pebble beaches of Desenzano and Garda town slide into the clear waters and provide a relaxing setting for a day of soaking up the sun. The charming harbour of Peschiera and fortress walls of Torri del Benaco stand in honour to the Veronese and Venetian rulers. Perhaps the most photographed site on the lake is the 13th century Scaliger Castle of Sirmione, used by the Scaliger fleet and a rare example of medieval port fortification. The Scaliger were a noble family of Verona and the fortification was part of the defensive network surrounding nearby Verona to the east. The castle sits as testimony to their first military venture onto the Sirmio Peninsula with the intention to wipe out the population of Sirmione, who were heretic Cathars. Some 2,000 Cathars were burned at the stake in the Arena of Verona. The historic city of Verona lies just 30 minutes drive eastwards of the southern end of the lake. One of the most ancient and beautiful Italian cities, it is the second city of the Veneto after Venice itself. Dating back to Roman times and beyond, the walled city is dominated by its spectacular Roman arena, the site today for operatic, open-air musical extravaganzas during the summer months. The Roman amphitheatre can seat 15,000 spectators and during July and August the worldfamous opera festival plays host to some of the world’s best loved operas with sceneries designed by the greatest artists in the world: an evening at the Arena is unforgettable and reason enough in itself to make a trip to Verona. And yet the city is a historical treasure that spans many centuries. It is renowned for its Romanesque 11th and 12th Century churches. Also it was a centre for artists in the Renaissance era, and you can see a collection of paintings and sculptures in the Museo di Castelvecchio. For die-hard romantics Verona is truly the city of love, the setting for Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet. You can visit Casa di Giulietta, (Juliet’s house), and embellish your romantic fantasy with a photo taken on the famous balcony (actually built in the 20th century). Coupled with excellent shopping and great cuisine Verona makes an enticing combination with the watery delights of Lake Garda. Garda Island near Salò on Lake Garda. Verona Juliet’s Terrace at Casa de Giulietta Almost hidden in a charming small house overlooking Piazza San Zeno, also home to the famous basilica of the same name, this famous 2 michelin star restaurant serves a tasting menu designed by masterchef Giancarlo Perbellini himself, which can be slightly adapted if required. The ambience is pleasantly informal, with the chefs at work in an open kitchen which shares the same space as the dining room, almost as if guests are visiting the chef’s own home. exceptional ‘at home’ cuisine at casa perbellini 24

Grand Hotel a Villa Feltrinelli Gargnano, Lake Garda Home to Mussolini between 1943-45, this Art Nouveau, 20-room villa oozes intimate elegance yet exudes a welcoming and relaxed feel. It was built in 1892 and has a highly decorated façade painted in warm terracotta and golden hues, topped by small castle-like turrets. The elegant accommodations are spread across the main villa and four cottages dotted around the gardens within which there is also a lovely, heated swimming pool. The real prize comes with Chef Stefano Baiocco’s 2 michelin-starred restaurant. a touch of class The grace of our 5 star collection of classic hotels were once the residences of royalty, nobles and even an infamous dictator bought up to modern standards of luxury through recent renovations and attention to detail and superlative service: Grand Hotel Fasano & Villa Principe Gardone Riviera, Lake Garda, Lombardy The Grand Hotel Fasano is perched on picturesque Lake Garda and set within a 12,000-square-metre park that is filled with palms and banana trees. Located on the edge of the Dolomites, halfway between Venice and Milan, the iconic property has welcomed guests with exceptional service since the 19th century. Once a splendid residence that served as a hunting lodge of the Austrian royal family, The Grand Hotel Fasano now offers a family-run oasis for travellers in an exotic setting. Tradition and modernity are combined harmoniously within the retreat. Rooms and suites impress with tasteful grandezza and warm cream hues that create an elegant lightness that encourages well-being. A day is well spent relaxing by the hotel’s pools, taking a stroll through the lush gardens, or enjoying an Italian meal with local sourced produce in the beautiful dining room underneath the original 19th-century ceilings of the residence. Hotel Villa Cortine Palace Sirmione, Lake Garda One of the most prestigious hotels on Lake Garda, the Hotel Villa Cortine Palace embodies elegance and impeccable style. Impressive wrought iron gates open into extensive private parkland with a driveway leading straight to the Neptune fountain, which stands at the entrance of this luxurious hotel. The Neo-classical villa dates back to 1870 and was transformed in the latter half of the 20th century into the stunning 54-room hotel that stands there today. Located within 5 minutes walk of the charming small peninsula of Sirmione, the hotel and has its own private bathing jetty onto the lake as well as an open-air pool, two restaurants and two bars. 25

wine & spa retreats by the lake The romans were particularly fond of Sirmione due to the existence of thermal springs and were also responsible for the development of the vineyards around Bardolino. Here are our wine and spa hotel recommendations: Villa Cordevigo goes back five centuries but Roman artifacts found there tell of older origins. Distant worlds of elegance and beauty are still apparent after careful restoration and the added comforts of a modern lifestyle, including a spa. Attention for detail and service guarantees a warm welcome in the former private mansion and working farm whose orchard was later converted into a park with terrace, a material demonstration of the wealth and power of the families residing there. Villa Cordevigo is now a luxury wine relais with two restaurants, one proudly bearing a Michelin star. The estate’s formal garden, pool and gym, park, cypresses and olive trees are set among vineyards producing fine wines to accompany local products of excellence. Relax at Villa Cordevigo, enjoying the experiences guests take home as unforgettable memories. Villa Cordevigo Wine Relais A member of Relais & Châteaux, Cavaion Veronese, Province of Verona Lefay Resort & SPA Lago di Garda Gargnano, Lake Garda, Lombardy Nestled high atop a hill above the western shores of Lake Garda, Lefay Resort & SPA Lago di Garda stuns travellers with spectacular panoramic views of the Riviera dei Limoni. Within a park-like estate dotted with shady woodlands and sweeping lawns lies one of northern Italy’s most beautiful wellness retreats featuring all-suite accommodation, all with lake views. Superb facilities include two restaurants and two bars with a focus on healthy, seasonal Mediterranean dishes. Designed to blend seamlessly with nature, the hotel cascades downward in terraces to a broad infinity pool whose mirror-like surface melts wih waters of Lake Garda. Lido Palace Riva del Garda, Lake Garda, Trentino A sophisticated ‘belle epoque’ hotel which will surprise as the classic facade reveals a more contemporary treatment within where you will find classic features juxtaposed with quirky abstract works of art and vivid furnishings. Located beneath the craggy cliffs surrounding the northern end of the lake, Lido Palace occupies a prime position in the centre of Riva del Garda, delivering dramatic views onto the lake and surroundings. The stylish spa has a heated indoor swimming pool separated from an outdoor pool by large floor-to-ceiling windows; you’ll also find a Finnish sauna, salt room and 3 steam rooms. There are two restaurants and a bar. 26

Due Torri Hotel Verona City Centre Occupying a historic 14th-century palace, Due Torri Hotel is situated in the heart of Verona. The superb quality of the furnishings and the professional service are highly valued by its devoted international clientele. Extensive recent refurbishments have yielded a fresh facade, contemporary touches, a new dining room, an exclusive interior courtyard, ideal for cocktails, dinners and buffet suppers, and a panoramic terrace with spectacular views of the history city centre. Rooms and suites are appointed with period furniture, and hand-crafted marble. a night at the opera In a city famed for its opera festival which are the hotels which reach the high notes in and around Verona: Byblos Art Hotel Villa Amistà San Pietro in Cariano, Near Verona, Province of Verona Located in the suburbs of Verona, Byblos Art Hotel is a unique fivestar experience that marries traditional Italian Baroque style with modern and contemporary art. From the outside Villa Amistà, surrounded by manicured gardens, seems like any other stately Italian villa, but step inside and ultra modern design by renowned architect and designer, Alessandro Mendini, stands out in stark contrast to the historic building. Each one of the 58 rooms in Byblos Art Hotel Villa Amistà is individually decorated and masterfully styled with the use of vividly bright coloured fabrics and furnishings as well as original paintings. Astounding pieces of contemporary art in dizzying colours are found throughout the hotel and include works by Marc Quinn, Damien Hurst, Anish Kapoor and Vanessa Beecroft. There is a superb spa, an outdoor pool and fine dining at Amistà Restaurant, which retains its one Michelin Star for 2023, using local produce reinterpreted in a modern key by Chef Mattia Bianchi. NH Collection Palazzo Verona Verona City Centre NH Collection Palazzo Verona could hardly have a more attractive setting. This newly refurbished boutique hotel occupies a 14th-century building a stone’s throw from Verona’s main attractions. like Juliet’s House, Piazza delle Erbe and the Roman Arena. The 70 newly renovated rooms and suites are decorated in a chic contemporary style although traces of antiquity like frescoes adorn some walls and there are roman ruins in the basement. 27

emmed-in by the Alps to the north, France to the west and Tuscany to the south, the region of Liguria, otherwise known as the Italian Riviera, represents a narrow strip of undulating coastline stretching for 440 kilometres on the Ligurian Sea and a rugged hinterland that's quite breathtakingly beautiful. In an area dominated by the sea, it's no surprise to learn that its capital city Genoa was once a mighty maritime power of the medieval world, rivalling Venice for control of world trade at one time in its history. Known affectionately as La Superba, Genoa marks the halfway point along Liguria's coastline, dividing it in two with the Riviera di Ponente (coast of the setting sun) to the west and the Riviera di Levante (coast of the rising sun) to the east. Within the two rivieras are some of Italy's most beautiful seaside resorts, along with the area known as the Cinque Terre, or "five lands", a series of fishing villages recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, along with the nearby town of Portovenere and the small group of islands it faces including Palmaria. The names of Liguria's most famous resorts read like a who's who of Italian seaside towns including Portofino, Sanremo and Rapallo. Lesser-known but no less beautiful, towns such as Sestri Levante and Camogli fly slightly under the international radar but are firm favourites among Italians. Imperia Province occupies the area between Savona Province to the east and France to the west. This stretch of coastline was one of the first to be developed when international tourism arrived around the beginning of the 19th century. The greatest expression of architecture from the period can be found in Sanremo; a signature seaside town famous for its casino and glamorous hotels. liguria & piedmont H Occupying a stretch of coastline with crystalline water, rugged cliffs and vineyards, it's easy to understand how the area has become so popular in modern times. As something of a paradox, it is the slight difficulty to reach the Cinque Terre that has added to its allure. The only traffic here is restricted to the locals and consists of small agricultural vehicles or cars. The roads in the area are narrow, steep and not suitable for large numbers of vehicles and this has helped preserve the special character of the villages. cinque terre 28

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